Author: Jonathan Swain (aka "PurdueGuy")
Relevant Models
1997-2002 SC1
1997-2002 SC2
1996-2002 SL
1996-2002 SL1
1996-2002 SL2
1996-2001 SW1
1996-2001 SW2
Tools
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Short extension (optional)
Intro
The door check is the piece that lies between the door’s hinges and holds the door open at a couple places, keeping it from blowing open & shut in the breeze. It looks like this:
***Before I continue, let me say that I replaced my door check because it was clunking whenever the door was opened/closed. This may not be a good reason to replace it, as I found out. The new part did not totally solve the problem, though it was a bit quieter. The real problem, it turned out, was that the metal on the door where the check mounts is stressed, and buckles a bit and creaks. I will be looking into reinforcing the mounting point.
Ok, back to replacing the door check.
Removal
Step 1
Lower Door Trim Removal
For driver’s side door check:
For passenger side door check:
Step 2
Once that trim is off, you’ll need to pull the rubber seal out of the way of the hole you will need to work in. First, remove the wiring harness from the rubber (yellow). Just grab the harness and carefully pull out – it is just wedged in there. Next, just grab at the edge of the rubber and pull out gently, but firmly (red).
It will then look like this…
Step 3
Now we’re ready to grab that 10mm socket & ratchet and remove 2 nuts (red) & 1 bolt (yellow). The 2 nuts may stay connected to the plate (green).
Step 4
Next, slide off the plate. You can see in the picture that my upper nut did not stay connected to the plate, but the bottom one did. It appeared that they originally connected the nuts to the plate on purpose, probably to prevent loss.
Here’s what it looks like with the plate removed.
Step 5
Finally, slide the piece out the hole where the rubber piece is.
Here is the now check-less door and frame.
Installation
Installation is the reverse of removal.